Unicorn

How to Secure flights with Unicorn Gripper 3 Shafts
I guess there would be a thread on this, but it might be buried down somewhat hence this new thread, which is a bit different than a review.

As some have opined, flights kept on falling out of the Gripper 3s without being punched.

I think I may have discovered a way to secure flights without extra expense, punching etc.

Like many, I inserted the flights all the way in, and they kept falling out. Notice the slot below the spring.

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I initially got really frustrated, but decided to tinker about it for a bit before tossing the whole lot, and I found that by pushing down the spring past the slots, inserting the flights all the way in, keeping one finger on the top of the flight while pushing the spring back to the base of the flight secured it very well! The photos will do the explaining. Guests cannot see images in the messages. Please register at the forum by clicking here to see images.

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After doing this, I can hold the dart by the flights only, and shake it up and down without the flight coming loose. Of course, do it hard enough and it will come out, just like bounce outs to a concrete floor will dislodge the flight.

Now I still have to get rid of my Gripper 3s Short, not because they keep losing flights, but I discovered I prefer Medium shafts, and preferable metal! Lol! :dodgy:

Hope this helps. Not sure if something like this has been posted before ...
NATURAL DARTS? https://www.dartsnutz.net/forum/showthre...?tid=22147

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Nice post plus 1
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Nice tip, a +1 from me too. Guests cannot see images in the messages. Please register at the forum by clicking here to see images.
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Thanks for this. I have plenty of medium shafts I could swap for your short gripper 3 shafts if you don't want them
Darts: 20g Peter Wright Euro 11 Elements 
Shafts: Nitrotech short
Flights: Standard No.2

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I don't use these myself but wish to congratulate you on a very nice post. Your pictures and script make for a very simple explanation +1

Well done
Dorian
Son of Merlin

Caerleon - Wales

(Mission "KURO" M4 rear taper design- 23GmYellow Kite Shape Flights 100 micron & Solid Brass Stems)

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My father Merlin, once told me that "You should end up pointing to what you were aiming at when you've released the Dart."




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Unfortunately, my gripper 3s all broke within 4 days. They are extremely prone to robinhoods thanks to their design.
-Milky

Keeping dart retailers in business since 2012.
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Wow! Thanks for the rep points Saber, Getagrip and Dorian! :-)

Robin-hooding with the Grippers is something design inherent I guess. Back to punching?

Rich345 ... aluminiums medium? The heavier the better. :-)
NATURAL DARTS? https://www.dartsnutz.net/forum/showthre...?tid=22147

A beginner - always experimenting and learning. Lol! Guests cannot see images in the messages. Please register at the forum by clicking here to see images.
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Thanks for the advice for thoose who didnt know this! Works with every stem..
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(09-29-2014, 07:24 AM)Ancient Darter Wrote: Wow! Thanks for the rep points Saber, Getagrip and Dorian! :-)

Robin-hooding with the Grippers is something design inherent I guess. Back to punching?

Rich345 ... aluminiums medium? The heavier the better. :-)

let me have a look and see what i have
Darts: 20g Peter Wright Euro 11 Elements 
Shafts: Nitrotech short
Flights: Standard No.2

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(09-29-2014, 04:20 AM)Milkysunshine Wrote: Unfortunately, my gripper 3s all broke within 4 days. They are extremely prone to robinhoods thanks to their design.

i brought a 5 pack of short white over a month ago and not had one break yet. had a couple of springs bite the dust though
Darts: 20g Peter Wright Euro 11 Elements 
Shafts: Nitrotech short
Flights: Standard No.2

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The blunt finger design is what catches points. Instead of having a nice taper like most stems, they are almost concave. It makes it easier to insert a flight... but also easier to insert an incoming dart point.
-Milky

Keeping dart retailers in business since 2012.
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Seems like a lot of work just to put a flight on. Still a good idea to help those who use these types of stems.
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(09-29-2014, 01:57 PM)Milkysunshine Wrote: The blunt finger design is what catches points. Instead of having a nice taper like most stems, they are almost concave. It makes it easier to insert a flight... but also easier to insert an incoming dart point.

i find that if you use the technique shown above or if you don't push the flight in too far, it grips well and the top does not splay out. if you just push the flight all the way in it does seem to splay out a little which i guess could lead to more breakages. they could be better for sure (cant everything) but personally i really like them. i am a little disappointed they have not brought either the mirage or two tone versions out in short length.
Darts: 20g Peter Wright Euro 11 Elements 
Shafts: Nitrotech short
Flights: Standard No.2

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I'm a happy user without springs and punch, just flights full in the stem.
may all the doubles be with you

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Found same problem... I just received my Gripper3 stems and on second night of practice RH'd one and broke one of the sines. I know this can happen, but more importantly, I found the flights coming loose as I played on the very first night (and I let one of my buds throw a game with me, and he had the flights bouncing right out on impact, and does not throw much harder than myself!)

SO, I am wondering, if you push the spring further down the stem, wont that spread (stretch it open) it, and prevent it to clamp the flight when you push it back up the shaft??

Any advice/recommendations on better shaft/spring setups greatly appreciated! I have used the following and found they all don't really last very well:
Harrows Supergrip
Harrows Dimplex
Target Progrip
Unicorn Gripper 3

Thanks for your input:youdaman:
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