Shot Darts

Rivet tool
Having seen a couple Youtube videos where people used an inexpensive Stanley rivet tool to easily remove points, I can't get the darn thing to work at all. It won't grab on to the points. Have any of y'all done this? Is there a trick I'm missing?

There's the gas burner method as described in another Nutz thread and I suppose I could do that, but I bought the stupid tool and I want my 12 bucks' worth!
26's so far this year: I've already lost count. :-)

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I use the same trick mate i rough up the old points with sand paper and it seems to grip better and sometimes i remove the rivet guide and put a penny washer over the point to remove it when it wont grip hope this helps.

of course this was before i bought a repointer from Andy at perfect darts Guests cannot see images in the messages. Please register at the forum by clicking here to see images.
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Hi all,

The best is to remove this like pic, and put the Harrows tool for the barrel. So the point get in deeper for better grip

Broken link removed
may all the doubles be with you

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The rivet gun should have different size gripping attachments included with it. Not all pop rivets are the same size and the guns I've had over the years have varying size attachments that can be changed out to fit the different size rivets. I've changed many sets of points using a pop rivet gun to remove the old ones.
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never tried it but I'm sure we have a riveter somewhere, might give it a go Guests cannot see images in the messages. Please register at the forum by clicking here to see images.
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I use the rivet gun on points that I won't reuse.

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I've since refined my technique a little...

I'm finding it's best to remove the silvery front attachment, place a stiff cotter pin around the point where it meets the barrel, (lets the point go into the tool a little deeper than a washer will), whack the dart in with a rubber mallet, and squeeze the tool to remove the point from the barrel. The point is then stuck in the tool, but if you screw in the largest silvery front attachment, the point falls right out.
26's so far this year: I've already lost count. :-)

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Sounds like you got it sorted.
There is also different types of rivet guns on the market but unfortunately these are more expensive, instead of the traditional two jaw gripping jaws, these suckers have three gripping jaws.

As said before if you scuff your tips they should grab, by scuffing I mean really go to town with one of those thin disk grinding blades, little lines on each side where the jaw teeth will want to bite.

Instead of the coin you can also grind back some of the nub off the screw in tip so that it is flatter.

I think that with a well designed rivet gun with a few mods would be the safest and easiest way to retract points, just gota remember the brand of this three jaw style riveter, as I have been looking for some time at the hardware but cant find them, the one that I have seen was used by a chap who repointed darts at the odd tournaments our league has.
MATCH DARTS: 26g Robbo's
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upon closer inspection, three jaw riveters are way over the top in price, BUT!!!

with some patience and one extra jaw, one should quite easily make their own.

with a grinder (watch head) you could turn this
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Into this
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MATCH DARTS: 26g Robbo's
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thx, good thread, didnt know re-pointing would be this easy, already have a rivet tool, so i ordered 4 sets of smooth black storms tonight.
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(04-14-2014, 09:33 PM)brenthahn Wrote: I've since refined my technique a little...

I'm finding it's best to remove the silvery front attachment, place a stiff cotter pin around the point where it meets the barrel, (lets the point go into the tool a little deeper than a washer will), whack the dart in with a rubber mallet, and squeeze the tool to remove the point from the barrel. The point is then stuck in the tool, but if you screw in the largest silvery front attachment, the point falls right out.

Most of the common or garden pop rivet guns release the rivet shank/dart point if you open the handles as wide as they will go.Some times jerking the handle apart so that they hit on the stop makes the gripping chuck part let go of the shank/point
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What's your experience of this for repointing?
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