11-15-2016, 08:52 PM
(This post was last modified: 11-15-2016, 08:54 PM by Ancient Darter.)
Other than always making sure you throw in an area that has a cushioned floor, one possibility is to introduce a dampening media in the threads.
This may, or may not work, but for the cheap (relative to say full Target TI stems 3+ GBP vs 15+ GBP), there's no harm if you have been suffering from broken shafts on bounce-outs on hard surfaces.
It's really simple.
1) Sand down the internal TI threads where the carbon stem attaches slightly. This is to make space for the dampening media. I suspect I also want to remove the (usually) sharp apex of the threads that may contribute to the snapping. Whether it does, or not, I can't say for sure, but you still need space for the cushioning media.
2) Use a skinny split mandrel or split pin sanding tool* or simply roll a 120 - 150 grit glasspaper around a thin but strong toothpick, then take the toothpick out and roll it as tight as possible. If the toothpick and the glasspaper fits into the threads, just use that.
I believe for split mandrels less than 4mm, the thickness of the media has to be thinner. Check the specs and just use a finer grit glasspaper.
3) Blow the dust out.
4) Apply a drop of rubber contact adhesive to the TI threads and carbon threads. Be generous. You want things to get a little messy. If possible, use the stronger type for bicycle or car tiers etc.
5) Attach the carbon portion to the TI right away, and tighten as you usually do.
Excess cement will get squeezed out. When it dries, you can just rub it off with your fingers.
Let it dry overnight if possible, but you could probably use it after 30 minutes or so.
If the carbon portion does snap, just undo it and use a sharp point to scrape out as much of the old cement as possible, or just use acetone, or something called 'Goof Off Remover' which some say works much better than acetone. You might want to try this on painted darts for paint removal as well, if the caution says it's safe for metals, which it should be but I'm not sure.
If this works, the carbon portion may still snap at the threads if the impact is great, or just at that correct angle, but using this method might prolong the life of your beloved blingster stems. I really hope it does me8s! Guests cannot see images in the messages. Please register at the forum by clicking here to see images.
Hope this helps. Guests cannot see images in the messages. Please register at the forum by clicking here to see images.
Me not an industrial designer, nor a mech engineer, so if any of you guys see potential in this, and think of ways to improve it, please do share. Guests cannot see images in the messages. Please register at the forum by clicking here to see images.
* Split mandrels are really cheap at less than 1 or 2 GBP for one or two pieces, or you might be able to get a whole set for less than 5 GBP. Check if the size is what you need. Ebay and the usual online places, or your hardware store.
This may, or may not work, but for the cheap (relative to say full Target TI stems 3+ GBP vs 15+ GBP), there's no harm if you have been suffering from broken shafts on bounce-outs on hard surfaces.
It's really simple.
Guests cannot see images in the messages. Please register at the forum by clicking here to see images.
1) Sand down the internal TI threads where the carbon stem attaches slightly. This is to make space for the dampening media. I suspect I also want to remove the (usually) sharp apex of the threads that may contribute to the snapping. Whether it does, or not, I can't say for sure, but you still need space for the cushioning media.
2) Use a skinny split mandrel or split pin sanding tool* or simply roll a 120 - 150 grit glasspaper around a thin but strong toothpick, then take the toothpick out and roll it as tight as possible. If the toothpick and the glasspaper fits into the threads, just use that.
I believe for split mandrels less than 4mm, the thickness of the media has to be thinner. Check the specs and just use a finer grit glasspaper.
3) Blow the dust out.
4) Apply a drop of rubber contact adhesive to the TI threads and carbon threads. Be generous. You want things to get a little messy. If possible, use the stronger type for bicycle or car tiers etc.
5) Attach the carbon portion to the TI right away, and tighten as you usually do.
Excess cement will get squeezed out. When it dries, you can just rub it off with your fingers.
Let it dry overnight if possible, but you could probably use it after 30 minutes or so.
If the carbon portion does snap, just undo it and use a sharp point to scrape out as much of the old cement as possible, or just use acetone, or something called 'Goof Off Remover' which some say works much better than acetone. You might want to try this on painted darts for paint removal as well, if the caution says it's safe for metals, which it should be but I'm not sure.
If this works, the carbon portion may still snap at the threads if the impact is great, or just at that correct angle, but using this method might prolong the life of your beloved blingster stems. I really hope it does me8s! Guests cannot see images in the messages. Please register at the forum by clicking here to see images.
Hope this helps. Guests cannot see images in the messages. Please register at the forum by clicking here to see images.
Me not an industrial designer, nor a mech engineer, so if any of you guys see potential in this, and think of ways to improve it, please do share. Guests cannot see images in the messages. Please register at the forum by clicking here to see images.
* Split mandrels are really cheap at less than 1 or 2 GBP for one or two pieces, or you might be able to get a whole set for less than 5 GBP. Check if the size is what you need. Ebay and the usual online places, or your hardware store.
NATURAL DARTS? https://www.dartsnutz.net/forum/showthre...?tid=22147
A beginner - always experimenting and learning. Lol! Guests cannot see images in the messages. Please register at the forum by clicking here to see images.
A beginner - always experimenting and learning. Lol! Guests cannot see images in the messages. Please register at the forum by clicking here to see images.
