There can be multiple reasons why darts will not stick into a board initially or fall out a few seconds later.
-Bad board. Can be new with a defect or an old board with worn sisal/fibers. In some cases you can't do anything no matter how much you scuff your points. A very worn bullseye is almost impossible to work with.
-Your setup. If you have a light throw combined with a light dart, that's often the perfect combination for fall outs. I used to throw 14g Hankey's and my throw is a light lob...I had a lot of fall/bounce outs unless I scuffed my points.
-Your points are too smooth. Time to scuff.
Many players think using a sharpening stone or "scuffing your points" involves making the point sharper. It makes sense...the sharper the point = dart goes in deeper.
The problem isn't how deep the point is entering, it's the board gripping the dart after it enters the board. Remember, your dart is only stuck in with a small metal point with 99% of the dart weight pulling down the opposite end.
It's like sticking a needle into a pillow. If the needle is smooth/polished, it's going to slide out just as easy if put in 1/2" or an 1" So sharpening your point does nothing.
What you want do is scuff the first 1/2" of the point so it creates friction with the fibers on the board. Scuffing the points takes away the smoothness of the point and gives your points tiny little gritty edges that will snag on the board fibers.
I find so many people wanting to replace their points with some type of grip point, longer point, etc... because their darts won't stick. Almost every single time I've scuffed their points, it solves their issue immediately.
So here is a few ways to do it.
First of all. You don't want nice shiny points.
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You have a couple of different methods.
1. Sandpaper (my favorite)
2. Sharpening stone
Sandpaper Method #1
First grab some sandpaper. I use 120-150 grit personally. If that's not doing the trick, try a lower grit.
I like to spread it over the edge of a table/work bench. Just makes it easier and gives your more room for you hand/barrel. Don't do this on a nice table...if the sandpaper slips/you scuff up the table, you won't be happy.
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Now you want to angle the dart on the sandpaper so only the first 1/2" or so is laying against the sandpaper. This is why I like to use the edge of a table...you can keep the barrel from being sanded too.
I marked the section that needs to be touching. It looks like my barrel is near the sandpaper but it's just the camera angle.
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Now simply slide the dart back and forth along the sandpaper while spinning the dart in your fingers. You want to get the whole 1/2" section scuffed.
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This is what you want the point to look like. Remember, this is an up close picture using a bright flash...your point under normal lighting will just have a slight matte/non-shiny look.
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Sandpaper Method #2
You can also use a small piece of sandpaper, pinch it together, and then spin the dart point inside the sandpaper. You may need to make a few new folds if you're using light grit paper....you'll quickly smooth out that sandpaper section.
I sometimes bring a small piece of sandpaper with me when playing leagues/tournaments. It works great in a pinch.
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Sharpening Stone
You can also use a regular sharpening stone in two ways.
On the side like you use the sandpaper (holding the stone with the other hand of course....I couldn't do it because I was holding a camera). Just slide the point back and forth while rolling the barrel.
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Or spinning the dart along the inside edges like you're stirring paint. Again, use your other hand to hold the stone.
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I prefer sandpaper.
Immediately after scuffing your points, you'll notice the darts are much harder to pull out of the board. That's good.
You will need to scuff your points often depending on much you play. At first the darts will really stick and you need a good pull to get them out of the board but they'll be easier after a few throws. I usually scuff my points every week or so.
Hope this helps...I've helped players scuff their points that have been throwing for years and they had no idea this is what you're supposed to do. So many people think they NEED barbed/board grip points (where the grip is on the point tip)...this should solve it.
-Bad board. Can be new with a defect or an old board with worn sisal/fibers. In some cases you can't do anything no matter how much you scuff your points. A very worn bullseye is almost impossible to work with.
-Your setup. If you have a light throw combined with a light dart, that's often the perfect combination for fall outs. I used to throw 14g Hankey's and my throw is a light lob...I had a lot of fall/bounce outs unless I scuffed my points.
-Your points are too smooth. Time to scuff.
Many players think using a sharpening stone or "scuffing your points" involves making the point sharper. It makes sense...the sharper the point = dart goes in deeper.
The problem isn't how deep the point is entering, it's the board gripping the dart after it enters the board. Remember, your dart is only stuck in with a small metal point with 99% of the dart weight pulling down the opposite end.
It's like sticking a needle into a pillow. If the needle is smooth/polished, it's going to slide out just as easy if put in 1/2" or an 1" So sharpening your point does nothing.
What you want do is scuff the first 1/2" of the point so it creates friction with the fibers on the board. Scuffing the points takes away the smoothness of the point and gives your points tiny little gritty edges that will snag on the board fibers.
I find so many people wanting to replace their points with some type of grip point, longer point, etc... because their darts won't stick. Almost every single time I've scuffed their points, it solves their issue immediately.
So here is a few ways to do it.
First of all. You don't want nice shiny points.
Broken link removed
You have a couple of different methods.
1. Sandpaper (my favorite)
2. Sharpening stone
Sandpaper Method #1
First grab some sandpaper. I use 120-150 grit personally. If that's not doing the trick, try a lower grit.
I like to spread it over the edge of a table/work bench. Just makes it easier and gives your more room for you hand/barrel. Don't do this on a nice table...if the sandpaper slips/you scuff up the table, you won't be happy.
Broken link removed
Now you want to angle the dart on the sandpaper so only the first 1/2" or so is laying against the sandpaper. This is why I like to use the edge of a table...you can keep the barrel from being sanded too.
I marked the section that needs to be touching. It looks like my barrel is near the sandpaper but it's just the camera angle.
Broken link removed
Now simply slide the dart back and forth along the sandpaper while spinning the dart in your fingers. You want to get the whole 1/2" section scuffed.
Broken link removed
This is what you want the point to look like. Remember, this is an up close picture using a bright flash...your point under normal lighting will just have a slight matte/non-shiny look.
Broken link removed
Sandpaper Method #2
You can also use a small piece of sandpaper, pinch it together, and then spin the dart point inside the sandpaper. You may need to make a few new folds if you're using light grit paper....you'll quickly smooth out that sandpaper section.
I sometimes bring a small piece of sandpaper with me when playing leagues/tournaments. It works great in a pinch.
Broken link removed
Sharpening Stone
You can also use a regular sharpening stone in two ways.
On the side like you use the sandpaper (holding the stone with the other hand of course....I couldn't do it because I was holding a camera). Just slide the point back and forth while rolling the barrel.
Broken link removed
Or spinning the dart along the inside edges like you're stirring paint. Again, use your other hand to hold the stone.
Broken link removed
I prefer sandpaper.
Immediately after scuffing your points, you'll notice the darts are much harder to pull out of the board. That's good.
You will need to scuff your points often depending on much you play. At first the darts will really stick and you need a good pull to get them out of the board but they'll be easier after a few throws. I usually scuff my points every week or so.
Hope this helps...I've helped players scuff their points that have been throwing for years and they had no idea this is what you're supposed to do. So many people think they NEED barbed/board grip points (where the grip is on the point tip)...this should solve it.
