attention newbies ,starting darts cheat sheet
My number 1 piece of advice (other the those listed here) is to video your throw.
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(03-25-2015, 03:40 AM)Dartbuggy Wrote: Great advice all around and the only one thing I would disagree with; I must be the only person on this forum who appreciates aluminum stems.

Interested in this - I too am used to aluminium shafts, and found plastic shafts to be a pain (particularly for flights popping out). Have I been doing it wrong? :-P
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I'm in the aluminium appreciation society too ? they grip the flight better for me

only thing is, when I robin hood a dart into the stem, if I can i'll switch it for a new one pronto and not bother bending it back into shape

target aluminium stems also have best finish
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(12-03-2015, 10:36 PM)garfer Wrote: I'm in the aluminium appreciation society too ?  they grip the flight better for me

only thing is, when I robin hood a dart into the stem, if I can i'll switch it for a new one pronto and not bother bending it back into shape

target aluminium stems also have best finish

I can have serious problems trying to get a flight onto an aluminum stem.  One night I spoiled two sets trying to fit a single shaft.
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(12-04-2015, 10:32 AM)BigE Wrote:
(12-03-2015, 10:36 PM)garfer Wrote: I'm in the aluminium appreciation society too ?  they grip the flight better for me

only thing is, when I robin hood a dart into the stem, if I can i'll switch it for a new one pronto and not bother bending it back into shape

target aluminium stems also have best finish

I can have serious problems trying to get a flight onto an aluminum stem.  One night I spoiled two sets trying to fit a single shaft.

yeah, thicker flights can be fiddly otherwise I don't find 'em too much trouble

i have same issue with plastic stems as previous post, the flights don't stay in
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A flight punch and some slot rings may be your friend there. Wink

I stopped using aluminium stems when I started Robin-hooding all the time, just haven't gone back I guess. I'm using a Cosmo setup right now mind Wink
[Image: SJPX5hS.png]

"And the devil did grin; for his darling sin is pride that apes humility." - Samuel Taylor Coleridge

Just got back into the game. Trying to decide what works for me after a while out!

High checkout: 124 (T20, T14, D11, steeltip)
Best 501 leg: 20 darts
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(12-03-2015, 10:00 PM)Dartitis Wrote: Interested in this - I too am used to aluminium shafts, and found plastic shafts to be a pain (particularly for flights popping out). Have I been doing it wrong? :-P

Not sure how you would do it wrong but I use el cheapo nylon deflectagrips and have never had either a 100 or 150 micron flight pop out. I don't punch or use rings, I just make sure they are pushed down firmly.

Between visits I have a habit of squaring up the flights and making sure they are pushed right in so not sure if that has any effect.

Darts: Harrows Glen Durrant Duzza Series 2 24g, short Harrows Supergrip shafts, Harrows flights (Marathon/Retina/Optix/Rapide) 


Best 501: 13 darts (League), 14 darts (Pro Darter)

Best Checkout: 154 (League), 160 (Pro Darter)
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(12-10-2015, 04:19 AM)Banz Wrote:
(12-03-2015, 10:00 PM)Dartitis Wrote: Interested in this - I too am used to aluminium shafts, and found plastic shafts to be a pain (particularly for flights popping out). Have I been doing it wrong? :-P

Not sure how you would do it wrong but I use el cheapo nylon deflectagrips and have never had either a 100 or 150 micron flight pop out.  I don't punch or use rings, I just make sure they are pushed down firmly.

Between visits I have a habit of squaring up the flights and making sure they are pushed right in so not sure if that has any effect.

It is a very good idea to make the flights square.  It is even more important if your darts don't spin a lot, as spin mitigates irregularities in the setup like bent shafts and flights that are not squared up.  Most peoples darts will spin enough for it not to matter so much, but it could mean all the difference between hitting the finishing double and wiring it.
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Thanks for the info! Those darts apps are exactly what I've been looking for!
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Awesome thread.

Lot of times people get excited about the latest and greatest new dart and don't realize that most are based off an older design. If you haven't had a lot of time throwing, it's best to start off buying cheaper darts and then the more expensive versions when you figured out your preferred weight, barrel type, and grip level.

It's like the new Barney Phase 5s that he's currently using. Look at a set of Barney Phase 5's and then then scroll up to the Ton Machines. Hmmmmm. Both are 80% too. Guess what? Barney used to throw Ton Machines awhile back.

Totally agree with your views on flights too.

I've been playing for 3-4 years now and I'm favorite flight is still a plain jane Ruthless R4X. Every big online dart store has their own version of it. It's the plain colored one that's 100 micron. Usually 50c a flight.

Another great flight if you want a bit more speed is the Harrows Marathons in the solid white, black, red, blue, etc.. They have a matte color, hold their shape very well, and super durable. Best of all, cheap. They fins are slightly cut inward so they fly a bit faster. If you feel a standard flight floats too much, try the Harrows out.

PAY ATTENTION TO THE MICRON LEVELS OF FLIGHTS. Thicker isn't always better (keep the snickers down). If I throw with 150 micron, my darts sit tail down and they don't seem as durable....they can't flex when taking hard hits. I found that 100 micron is the best compromise.
It sounds ridiculous but even a little bit of extra flight thickness/weight (150 micron are heavier than 100 micron) can really alter your dart flight and how they sit in the board. For a new person, it's a good idea to figure out how you want your darts to land. Some players like tails angled up, some like darts laying flat. It's just preference and another easy tweak with your setup.

Just buy cheap...I have a mix of so many stems but often times I'll just grab my cheapest nylon no-names. I played with heavier darts for awhile (25g) and have maybe broken 2-3 in the past year. What's funny is sometimes the more "special" stems are actually more brittle. I love Target Pro Grip stems but think the clear versions are rubbish. I've had so many teammates break them. Not sure if that's true with most clear stems since they're a different chemical make-up...but just go with the solid basics.

But awesome thread.
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