Ideas for replacing the worn out bull on a dartboard.
I have a board that has a worn out bull, it has been hammered so much that a dart usually just falls out of it or actually penetrates to the particle board backing and bounces out. I am thinking of trying to replace it.
One idea I had is to cut out the green and red sections and the shape a cork to the right size and then gluing it in position.

Anyone have any good ideas?
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I think they used to use a clay for boards before sisal fibres were used... so a modelling clay / Play-Doh insert? - you would need to touch up the surface often, make sure your points are clean - but at least it would leave a mark if you have to have a game that needs a bull.

Maybe a paper target and something to catch the falling darts - that would need replacing frequently.

Maybe stencil the Bullseye into the big single area of the 6 or the 11 - and you have to Call a shot for the bull - Same height - but some players would grumble at having to side step. And that stencil has issues with is it or is it not a bull/outerbull if it is on the line.
Ryk is currently using:-
 鈴木 未来  Jadeite 24g
::  L-Shaft Locked Slim 300 Emerald :: Metal Champagne Ring Aqua :: - L-Flight Dimple Solid Emerald  :: Winmau Blade 6 ::
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As ryk mentioned I think nodor used to make boards from modeling clay aka plasticine (no odour, forming the name nodor), you could probably colourise the plasticine, by mixing a pigment in with the basic white colour (to save retouching it up) and maybe add a bit of filler (mixed in with the plasticine) if you wanted to make it a bit tougher (something akin to talc, maybe). The good thing using plasticine is that, it would be very easy to change in the future, but, have no idea how long it would last.
Yes its me, I checked in the mirror. 

Current throwing weights of 18 to 24 grams.

Current darts set up :- 23 gram, darts clearance (no name scalloped darts) with a 50 mm barrel, 41 mm nylon shafts + standard flights.
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Cut out playroom foam floor mats in the appropriate colour, glued with 5 min epoxy or i use construction glue that's not runny or messy.

Big Grin
I don't think there is anything 'natural' about throwing darts. A person does not naturally stand sideways, with weight more on one leg, lean forward and swing to launch a projectile repeatedly, day in, day out as part of daily routine. One does not even throw a rock or ball that way.    ~ With darts, everything has to be learnt, and refined.  Wink

What is NATURAL? https://www.dartsnutz.net/forum/showthre...?tid=22147

A beginner - always experimenting and trying to learn! So I can fool around with loads of set-ups and techniques! Lol! Big Grin
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My idea would be buy another board, if you’re hammering the bull that much you deserve a new one!
For all the trouble it would be worth trying to cut out and replace a new one could be on your wall, who doesn’t love ‘new dartboard day’!
[Image: 84EIGh2.jpg]
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New board if possible, drop plenty of hints it's nearly Christmas.
All the best
EsoxJD aka WaterWolf  Tongue
Darts: unicorn T95 23g 


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I had the same issue on my one80 G3 just last week. I play a lot of cricket so it gets beat down pretty good. I tried rotating the board with not much success. I finally looked at the dart points I was using and replaced them and now all seems good.
I'm not trying to hijack the thread just offering my suggestion before you go to much trouble.
New board would be my call instead of playing around changing out the bull area.
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Would use that as an excuse for a new board  Big Grin

But I can see it now, the Winmau Blade 6 magnetic disc with replaceable segments and bulls, never turn your board again, just replace your sisal segments or bull when they get worn out  Smile

Build your own board, want a Quattro or trainer board, just buy the individual segments and place on our magnetic disc, have any board you want , ha ha.

 Cheers
180’s
2018 - 0
2019 - 14
2020 - 4

Iv’e been working on my accuracy. I’ve gone from 53.6% to 92.8% getting 3 darts in the foam ring around my Winmau !
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Ancient Darter had a good idea, but I’d think about rubber cement as an optional glue.  An outer layer of cork glued to the foam might help give the dart something to bite in to or even multiple layers cork if you don’t fancy the foam - all glued with rubber cement as it stays soft and pliable, thus offering less resistance to the dart and can be pried loose easier than epoxy type glue.  A new board would be best however.
[Image: bIcnxOK.png]
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I'm not sure you can cut out the bull without ruining the integrity of the board. The sisal "biscuits" that are compressed to form the board are under tremendous pressure and cutting a hole in the center will probably lead to the sisal trying to fill it.
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^^^^^^
My thoughts as well.  Never mind what the spider would do. Seems to be a lot of energy in the embedded blade wire.
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Thanks for the suggestions. As some of you have said a new board is probably the best way to go, but I may try bull replacement just for the fun of it.
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(11-10-2019, 08:44 PM)Cat Wrote: Ancient Darter had a good idea, but I’d think about rubber cement as an optional glue.  An outer layer of cork glued to the foam might help give the dart something to bite in to or even multiple layers cork if you don’t fancy the foam - all glued with rubber cement as it stays soft and pliable, thus offering less resistance to the dart and can be pried loose easier than epoxy type glue.  A new board would be best however.

Even better Cat! :-)
I don't think there is anything 'natural' about throwing darts. A person does not naturally stand sideways, with weight more on one leg, lean forward and swing to launch a projectile repeatedly, day in, day out as part of daily routine. One does not even throw a rock or ball that way.    ~ With darts, everything has to be learnt, and refined.  Wink

What is NATURAL? https://www.dartsnutz.net/forum/showthre...?tid=22147

A beginner - always experimenting and trying to learn! So I can fool around with loads of set-ups and techniques! Lol! Big Grin
Reply
(11-10-2019, 12:25 PM)Phil D Wrote: As ryk mentioned I think nodor used to make boards from modeling clay aka plasticine (no odour, forming the name nodor), you could probably colourise the plasticine, by mixing a pigment in with the basic white colour (to save retouching it up) and maybe add a bit of filler (mixed in with the plasticine) if you wanted to make it a bit tougher (something akin to talc, maybe). The good thing using plasticine is that, it would be very easy to change in the future, but, have no idea how long it would last.

Interesting. I remember hearing or reading long ago that the no odor was in reference to pig bristles that were used prior to sisal, the problem being that they smelled like pigs—and that Nodor had figured out how to solve the smell problem. I had no idea it was through using plasticine! Or maybe I’m just mistaken all around on this ...
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Not sure how much is myth and how much is true, but, reputedly the original dartboards where log ends, which used to be soaked over night in water (going way back) I think nodor made the plasticine board around the time of ww1 (or not long after) seemingly the plasticine boards never caught on (I did have links to some info but seem to have lost them, been doing a quick google search).

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Darts#Dartboard

https://www.darts501.com/Manchester.html

I think some stories are probably myth, I remember one time meeting a guy who thought all dart boards had to be soaked in water and when I was younger believed a lot of the untrue myths (destroying a few, of my own, boards along the way (yep I once soaked my dartboard over night in the bath) end of board) it is actually, truth about soaking them, but, only in referance to log end boards. Most people will probably never come accross a log end these days.

The modern sisal board as it stands  is probably very close to perfect, as a board.

I ran accross the log end article almost by accident one day, when doing a  google search, as, I was curious how dart boards are actually made. It seems to be quite a complexed process, there are u tube videos, but the ones I have seen didnt show how the sisal was glued to the backing board, but, read that it is glued in a written article (the makers may have their own solutions to this problem, it is probably a very important stage of manufacturing (I heard somewhere that pva was used, but, might not be the case)) I am partly guessing, but, I suspect the bumps on a board might be linked to the glue failing, hence causing a raised bump, as it lifts from the backing, it could possibly become one of the future, innovations in dart board design (assuming that it is glued).

Apparently the sisal (biscuits, bundles of sisal) are bonded to the board after being trimmed to a one inch length 25.4 mm, a typical dart point is, also, around the same length, a hard thrower with long points could potentially destroy the glue layer, or, backing, over a period of time (at a guess).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oDoTckIznGk

I found this u tube of a puma bandit being made, the gluing process is not included (which may be a trade secret) puma have a long history of making sporting products, I doubt they would be limited to just pva glue. (if a better alternative is available) but, for me at any rate, it has, helped answer some of my own basic questions about dart board making.

Sorry for the waffle, I was bored and curious (probably, overly so)

As others have said, the ideal solution, is probably a new board. 

As someone else, mentioned the sisal is under a lot of tention, which could cause huge problems due to it expanding to fill in the gap. Let us know if you manage to fix the bull and if so, how you managed to do it.
Yes its me, I checked in the mirror. 

Current throwing weights of 18 to 24 grams.

Current darts set up :- 23 gram, darts clearance (no name scalloped darts) with a 50 mm barrel, 41 mm nylon shafts + standard flights.
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